Two of South Australia's emerging stars

We had the pleasure of looking at two terrific line ups of wines over the last couple of days. One producer really well known to us here (Kerri Thomson from KT & The Falcon) the other, someone we had never heard of before, Michael Hall from Michael Hall Wines.

Kerri, or KT as she is affectionately known, produces some of Australia's most beautiful rieslings from several of the Clare Valley's sub-regions. Tasting through the (not yet bottled) 2010's you cannot help but wonder why this concept is not more widespread. Being such a transparent variety, like pinot noir, it is amazing to see the differences that site can offer particularly when vinification is almost identical. This is certainly obvious between the flagship 'Peglidis Vineyard' (steely,austere, lemon-pith) and the 'Churinga Vineyard' (textured, forward, lime juice flavours). The 'Melva' Riesling from 2010, however, was the one that really got us excited. This year it has 12g/l residual sugar which, whilst giving 'Melva' a small degree of sweetness, gives the wine a beautiful and seductive textural element. It is also wild fermented and spends time on lees which gives the wine a measured dose of 'funk'.

KT's reds too are pure, deeply flavoured and polished.There is a sumptuous shiraz from 2008 as well as a flavour-packed shiraz grenache tempranillo called '5452' from the same vintage. All in all a delicious range of wines.

Michael Hall is an Englishman who came to Australia nine years ago to study winemaking, where he went on to be dux of the excellent wine science course at Charles Sturt University. His indecision on where to settle and eventually make his own wine, led him to stints in Burgundy (Domaine Leflaive & Meo-Camuzet) The Rhone (Vieux Telegraphe) Provence (Domaine Trévallon) not to mention local postings at Cullen, Giaconda, Henschke and Rolf Binder!

He eventually took a position at the Rocland Winery in the Barossa (which acts as a large processing facility for contract winemaking) on the proviso that he could eventually vinify wine under his own label there.

For Michael Hall Wines, Chardonnay is sourced from the Adelaide Hills and two shiraz are made, one from Stonewell in the Barossa and one from Eden Valley. These are lavishly made wines, beautifully packaged and are significant for the quality they display from a difficult vintage.

The chardonnay is ripe, layered and intense; the 'Eden Valley Syrah' aromatic, spicy and savoury whilst the 'Stonewell Valley Shiraz' is more forward, plummy and structured. This is certainly a name to watch!

All the above wines will soon be available in store, except for the rieslings from KT & The Falcon which are due for release in September.

Cheers,

Rob.

'05 by Five

A lot happened in 2005. A new Pope was ordained, George Bush began his second term in the White House, people around the world danced at Live 8, and Brokeback Mountain provided a generation of comedians with new material.

More importantly (!), 2005 was a great year for wine lovers, with exceptional conditions in both the New World and the Old World. 2005 Bordeaux is already legendary, and legendarily expensive.

Fortunately, not every wine worth drinking has to cost $2000+ per bottle. We’ve assembled five of the best of the best from the 2005 vintage here in Australia: four of them are new releases, held back by their makers to allow the wine to build harmony in the bottle, and not one of them requires a bank loan.

Enjoy!

Jason


1. Leeuwin Estate Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Margaret River, WA $79.90

2. Voyager Estate Cabernet Merlot 2005, Margaret River, WA $69.90

3. Yeringberg Cabernets 2005, Yarra Valley, Victoria $79.90

4. Grant Burge Meshach 2005, Barossa Valley, SA $155.90

5. Penfolds RWT 2005, Barossa Valley SA $219.90

1. Leeuwin Estate Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005, Margaret River, WA $79.90

I was in Margaret River in April, two weeks of wine, food, spectacular coastal scenery and isolated beaches. Two weeks in Paradise, basically. Naturally, the first thing I spoke about when I returned from my break was the stupendous quality of 05 Margaret River Cabernet.

I have to admit that I’ve not been a great fan of the Leeuwin Cabernets in the past, feeling that they were simply making up the numbers, but this… this was eye-opening, easily the best Leeuwin red I’ve seen, and one of the very best wines of the trip. The tannin was smooth and subtle, just sparking through the extraordinarily long finish, with a swathe of glycerol cushioning the black and red fruit on the tongue. Hints of earth and olive, ripe berry perfume with nuances of leather. If this is an indicator of a new direction for Leeuwin reds, you’ll love the run of vintages from 07 onwards. Full points to Leeuwin, too, for having the patience to hold this back until it’s ready. Drink now with a bit of a decant, and hold for up to 15.

This wine isn’t officially released until next month, but we asked very nicely.

2. Voyager Estate Cabernet Merlot 2005, Margaret River, WA $69.90

One of the other stand-outs, which just so happened to also be a 2005, was this little ripper. Not quite as plush as the wine from neighbouring Leeuwin Estate, just a wee bit more coiled and tighter, and slightly more angular tannin, but every bit as long.

What they said:

96 points, No.3 of Top Twenty-Five Cabernets, Campbell Mattinson & Gary Walsh, The Big Red Wine Book “Its another pearler: just such a seamless red. Sure, there are flavours of gravel, chocolate, blackcurrant and eucalypt, but it all comes across as a stunningly pure drop of red-wine goodness. It’s dark in colour and rich in flavour, with a luxurious sense of smoothness. Terrific.”

18.8/95, Jeremy Oliver “Very stylish and composed, this complete, long and elegant cabernet blend has a deep, dark and alluring bouquet of berries, plums and cedar/vanilla oak with underlying nuances of chocolate and dried herbs. It's long and smooth, with a pristine presence of vibrant black and red berries tightly knit with tight-grained oak and fine, crunchy tannins. Long and persistent, it finishes with lingering flavours of vibrant fruit, a suggestions of herbs and refreshing acids. Top class (YTD 2013-2017+)”

96 Points; James Halliday “If there is a single word to describe this wine, it is “harmonious”, a quality that can obscure the capacity of the wine to live for decades, however delicious it is now. Set in the context of the six preceding vintages, this wine had developed an extra degree of polish & finesse, red fruit nuances emerging alongside the black fruit flavours of its youth; the line, length and balance are impeccable. Screwcap 14% alc drink: to 2025.”

Ray Jordan, The Sunday Times Magazine; 2 May 2010 “The best buy yet: riotously perfumed, succulent, opulent, and impeccable balance.”

3. Yeringberg Cabernets 2005, Yarra Valley, Victoria $79.90

I do like a good Bordeaux blend, and this is a good Bordeaux blend. Cabernet stars, with Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot supporting. In contrast to the great cabernets of Margaret River, the great Cabernet blends of Victoria, are, well, more Victorian, more concerned with a graceful and elegant appearance but with all manner of mischief going on underneath.

What they said:

Andrew Caillard, MW “In a great year, the sublime utterly seductive and finely grained Cabernet Sauvignon can seriously challenge a great Bordeaux Chateau… This is a wonderful and sacred piece of Australian dirt.”

Jeremy Oliver 96 points “Very complex and generously flavoured, this charmingly elegant, smooth and polished cabernet blend presents a sweet, violet-like perfume and a slightly dusty, herbal expression of pristine, brambly small berry flavour knit with sweet vanilla oak. Framed by smooth, creamy fine tannin, it’s a genuinely ripe, slightly minty cooler region style that unfolds layer by layer of plump, juicy flavour. (Yarra Valley, drink 2017-2025+)”

Wine Advocate # 181, Jay Miller 92 points“The 2005 Yeringberg Red is a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc, 14% Merlot, 6% Malbec, and 3% Petit Verdot. Purple-colored, the nose exhibits aromas of smoke, violets, cassis, clove, cinnamon, and black cherry. Elegantly rendered and sweet on the palate, it has a bit of tannin to resolve which will occur with another 2-3 years of bottle aging. Drink this stylish effort from 2011 to 2021.”

4. Grant Burge Meshach 2005, Barossa Valley, SA $155.90

Any wine named for a biblical figure immediately puts me in mind of Charlton Heston racing chariots – you’ll need the patience to wait for the right moment, because it’s a long way to the finish, but well worth it when you get there.

Of course, the biblical figure in question, Meshach, was a friend of Daniel, not Charlton, and is perhaps best known for his role in the parable of the Fiery Furnace. I think that’s a Barossa Valley in the summer reference. The fact that Meshach refused to take impure sustenance fits as well, since the source Filsell vineyard with it’s 100 year old vines operates on similar principles.

What they said:

James Halliday 96 Points

“Deep crimson-purple, it is full-bodied, compact and thickly textured, the flavours deep and layered in a black fruit spectrum. The abundant tannins and oak are in perfect balance with the fruit. Once past its 10th birthday (cork permitting) it will reach its plateau of supple perfection that will last at least another decade. Shiraz. 14.5% alc, cork Drink to 2025 ”

Huon Hooke- Sydney Morning Herald - Mar 2010

“ After reviewing previous vintages of Meshach Huon said… "The best wines — 2004, 1994, 1998, 1990 and 2005 — are all terrific. They're worth the premium price and fully live up to expectations."”

John Fordham - Sunday Telegraph March 2010

“"Again, vines dating back to 1890 have allowed the master vigneron to craft an exceptional Meshach that easily qualifies as a member of the Barossa's super-premium shiraz club alongside leaders Penfolds Grange and Henschke Hill of Grace. The good news is Meshach is only one-quarter the price!"”

5. Penfolds RWT 2005, Barossa Valley SA $215.90

With Grange reaching stratospheric prices with the release of the 2005 vintage, I thought it interesting to take a look at its younger sibling, the Red Wine Trial, or RWT, first made in 1997. Where Grange uses much more new American oak, the RWT is a more elegant beast, with a mix of new and old French oak. The RWT is also sourced only from the Barossa, rather than the multi-regional blending of Grange. Its indisputable quality and a price a third that of its older sibling makes it very attractive indeed.

Savvy creatures that we are, we went and stored some of the 2005 RWT in our climate controlled cellar on release, and it’s this immaculately provenanced wine which we are proud to be able to offer to you. Yes, we think it’s pretty darn good. Grange Killer? Just might be…

What they said:

Campbell Mattinson 97 Points “Seductive, but not at all tarty… luscious, sweet-centred, bold wine, jammed full of blueberried fruit and clipped with toasty, cedary, creamy oak… fragrant and full, its violetty aromatics and power through the finish clear signals of its outstanding quality. This is a champion wine, for the long haul. Drink : 2015 – 2025”

Jeremy Oliver 18.9/96 points “A joyful, vibrant and supple shiraz whose open and uncomplicated expression of pristine blackberry, cassis and plum-like flavour is lifted by a spicy perfume and the handsome mocha and vanilla presence of new fine-grained French oak. Juicy without being jammy, it’s smooth and approachable, with a finely crafted, willowy backbone of velvet tannin. (Barossa Valley, drink 2013-2017)

James Halliday 94 points Good red-purple; fragrant aromas of black cherry, plum and blackberry; utterly delicious mouthfeel and seductive fruit; will live, but extreme patience not needed Drink 2020

Peter Gago, Penfolds Chief Winemaker “Giveaway, pristine Barossa Valley Shiraz fruit aromas; fresh blueberry (pie) and blood plum. A barrel-fermented vapour net entraps scents of cinnamon and nutmeg, violet and bergamot. Flirting strawberry yoghurt (creamy) and freshlycut rhubarb aromatics unwittingly entice. A nose of elevated and finessed perfumed high notes – a la RWT! The palate is balanced and full-bodied with a silken, lush, 'tofu-like' texture, replete with generous, ripe, even yet firm tannins. Flavours of wild-berry fruits - blueberry, boysenberry and loganberry, again verging towards raspberry yoghurt, redefine the 'sweet-conserve' descriptor ... neither porty nor residual sugarsweet, but lush and (dry red) unctuous. This is another great Barossa vintage, highlighting the strength of any of the Barossa sourced 2005 reds.”


Thirsty? Click to email us!

Welcome to the AWC blog!

Hello and welcome to the blog of The Australian Wine Centre! Over the coming months we will progressively be making some much needed and fundamental changes to our on-line profile. We hope that these changes enable our customers to have a greater access to us, and all that is new and exciting in Australian (and New Zealand) wine. Speaking of which...

I had the great pleasure today of having lunch with Mike Weersing of Pyramid Valley Vineyards, one of New Zealand's benchmark producers. Mike would have to be one of the most engaging and intuitive winemakers I have ever met and his wines - which are of breathtaking quality - are a true reflection of his winegrowing ethos. Needless to say, these are wines of character, sensuality and individualism especially in the context of the antipodean wine landscape. Keep an eye out for our offer on these wines coming soon.

Cheers,

Rob