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Wednesday, September 8, 2010

A Trip to Woodlands


As part of our dedication to ensuring that you, our customers, get the very best wine Australia has to offer, I forced myself to travel all the way from Sydney to Margaret River back in April. I even spent time making sure the local produce and day spas were up to scratch (good news, they are). So when I tell you that visiting my favourite Margaret River winery, Woodlands, was something I did for the most selfless of reasons, I am sure you will be suitably moved.

Although Woodlands is blessed with an exceptional location, directly across the road from Moss Wood and across the way from Cullen, and with relatively old vines, being established in 1973, perhaps the most important thing they have to offer is their passion. Brothers Stuart and Andrew Watson are unabashed fans of the Paulliac appellation in Bordeaux, and while these wines are distinctively Australian, you can see the French influence in their philosophy of wine making and viticulture. The entry level wines are excellent and intended for short to medium term enjoyment, while the rest of the range is extremely rewarding, particularly for the patient.

Aside from their normal releases, we’ve been lucky enough to get our hands on a few bottles of their cellar-door only Reserve De La Cave Malbec and Cabernet Franc. We have to give huge thanks to the Watson boys for allowing us this privilege.


Woodlands Cabernet Merlot 2008, Cabernet Franc Merlot 2008 and Margaret River Chardonnay 2008 and 2009, all $27.90
These entry level wines are frankly as good as (or better than) the mid-level wines of many other notable Margaret River producers. James Halliday rated the Cab Merlot at 93 and a Value Pick, and the Cab Franc Merlot at 92. The entry level chardonnay was given a massive 95 points and also received a Value Pick – hardly surprising at this price. We also have a small amount of 2008 available, which received a ‘mere’ 94 points from Mr Halliday. The 09 is fractionally more intense, but the 08 has an extra year of development.

Woodlands Margaret Reserve Blend (Cabernet Merlot Malbec) from $55.90
The first of the Reserve Range, which is actually the 2nd tier for Woodlands, is this little beauty. A perennial Value Pick for James Halliday, a wine Jeremy Oliver has been known to rave about, and one that has significant cellaring potential for a relatively inexpensive wine. We’re lucky enough to have stock from the vintages 2005 ($69.90) through to 2008 ($59.90). A mini-vertical would be well worthwhile.

Woodlands Reserve Chloe Chardonnay 2008 $78.90
Sitting alongside the Margaret is the Chloe, which like the Margaret River Chardonnay is an earlier-picked style, maintaining freshness, but, with 10 months in very high quality French oak and extended lees contact, has an additional layer of complexity. The 08 vintage received 96 points from James Halliday, putting it firmly on the top rung of Australian Chardonnays.

Reserve De La Cave Malbec and Cabernet Franc, 2005 and 2009 $129.90
The 3rd tier Reserve De La Cave wines are cellar-door only dwellers, and represent the very best barrel/s of the Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Typically, this means at most 600 bottles, and often fewer than 300, depending on vintage. The 2005 vintage was exceptional in Margaret River, and both wines received 95 point ratings from Jeremy Oliver. The 2009 Reserve De La Caves are currently being bottled, but having sampled both at the winery, I’m inclined to agree with winemaker Stuart Watson’s assessment that they are the best they’ve ever made. We’ve been extremely fortunate to get our hands on these, but we only have 6 bottles of each, with no more to come.

Woodlands ‘Nicolas’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 $142.90
Named after a different family member each vintage, the Woodlands flagship is often spectacular, particularly with the passage of time. Bordeaux specialist and current Wine Advocate writer Neil Martin had this to say about the 2007 release, the Nicolas: “Then you come to a wine like the Nicolas Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 and it is ‘hold on to your breeches time’ because this Cabernet just swaggered with class and would frankly make a mockery of its lily-livered cousins on the Left Bank. The wine embraces the fruit intensity but keeps it tight and controlled, does not allow the wine to get carried away. I think Stuart has a solid grasp on great wines that release their quality gradually, over time, whether that is through short-term aeration in the glass or decanter or over the long-term through cellaring and tannin degradation. Cellar this for 10-15 years and watch it bloom.”

We’re fortunate to have some stock of the 2004 Rachel ($169.90), which Neil Martin described as “Utterly harmonious, with the precision and poise that is world class”, and was rated 97 points by Jeremy Oliver, and the 2005 Colin ($147.90), which James Halliday described as “a classic example of Cabernet” en route to scoring it a 96. Both are direct from the winery’s own tasting stock.

As ever, if you would like to know more about any of these wines, click here to send us an email.

Cheers,

Jason