You probably know by now that Australia makes a lot of great Shiraz, and amongst other things some serious pinot noirs and chardonnays, too. You may also know that pinot and chardonnay are two of the traditional grapes used to make Champagne, and also sparkling wines, both red and white, from Burgundy. But Sparkling Shiraz? It just so happens that Sparkling Shiraz has a long history here in Australia, and is one of the few styles of wine we can genuinely claim as our own.
The traditional Methode Champenoise has been in use in Australia since at least the mid-19th Century, though it is difficult to pin down who the very first adopters were. The first vintner to make a sparkling red wine in Australia was Auguste D'Argent in the late 1870s for the Victorian Champagne Company, but D’Argent was arguably ahead of his time, and the company was bankrupt within a few short years.
We do know of several companies who were producing what was then known as Sparkling Burgundy by the late 1880s. The two dominant players of the era were Victorian company Great Western, and South Australian producer, Auldana.
The Great Western name survives to this day, though under other guises, namely Seppelt’s and Best’s. Auldana’s most famous wine, a Claret known as “St Henri” eventually attracted the attention of Penfolds, who purchased Auldana in the 1940s and kept the St Henri label as part of it’s own port folio. Both companies sparkling reds were made primarily from Shiraz which was picked for the quality of the fruit, and renown as rich, fruity wines. This was revolutionary at the time, since sparkling wine was often made from what were essentially left over grapes, but using a high quality base wine yielded excellent results.
These Sparkling Burgundies tended to fall in and out of fashion, and then with the arrival of a wine called “Cold Duck” in the 1970s, fell out again with a palpable thud. The excessive sweetness of Cold Duck left a bad taste in the general public’s mouth, and led to the exclusive association of Sparkling Burgundy with “sweet” – a problem which, interestingly, still affects rosé and Riesling. Sparkling reds made these days tend to half or less of the sugar of the sparkling reds made pre-WW2, and much less than those of the 70s, and even then, is done primarily to help offset tannin rather than impart a specific flavour profile.
Arguably, Sparkling Reds have only seen a resurgence in the last decade or so, as Australian wine makers inspired by the likes of the Seppelt Great Western Sparkling Burgundies of the 1960s do their own experimenting, their own carving of niches, much as their forbearers did. The name has changed, too – Burgundy was dropped at the request of the French in the 1990s, with the benefit of helping to define the style as uniquely ours.
I’ve included a few examples for you below. If you’re looking for something unusual, which also just happens to be perfect with Xmas (or even Thanksgiving, for those in the US) turkey. game birds, cheeses, and even desserts, give them a go.
While we do have a minimum of 12 bottles for shipping to most international destinations, if you’re only after a few bottles, let us know, and we’ll happily keep them aside for you against future purchases.
Castagna Genesis Sparkling Syrah 2005, Beechworth VIC $108.90
“It’s rare that top quality Shiraz is used to make sparkling Shiraz; even rarer that the top quality Shiraz used has come from a coolish climate. This wine shows the way forward for sparkling Shiraz. It’s spicy, ripe, dry, has structure and elegance and – essential for a sparkling red – sex appeal. The thing that sets this apart is that it combines spicy complexity with dry, structured elegance with ripe fruit appeal.
Rated: 96 Points Closure: Cork Drink: 2010 – 2017”, Campbell Mattinson
Leasingham Classic Clare Sparkling Shiraz 2004, Clare Valley SA $68.90
“Engaging red mousse, with deep purple beneath; a rich and savoury bouquet of fresh blackberry, mint and a touch of leathery complexity; mouth filling and savoury, with plenty of structure lurking beneath the ample fruit; dark, complex and a profound example of the style. Cork. 14% alc. Rating 94 Drink 2018 Date Tasted Feb 10”, James Halliday
Grampians Estate Rutherford Sparkling Shiraz 2006, Grampians VIC $43.90
“Presumably bottle-fermented, but no mention of this; is well balanced, neither oak nor sweetness obvious, just gently spicy Shiraz, perhaps with a touch of licorice; good length and balance. Crown seal. 14% alc. Rating 94 Drink 2015 Date Tasted Jan 10”, James Halliday
If you enjoyed reading this, look forward to ‘The Fizzes of Oz - Part Two", where we’ll take a look at some Australian Sparkling wines made in a more traditional style.
Cheers,
Jason
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P.S. For those of you who are Rockford Black Shiraz fans, let us know now to secure yourself a bottle of the imminent release!
